An introduction to skin care, Step Nine & Ten

There are only 2 more steps, so I might as well just get them done and over with!! Then I can get on with other posts!

Step Nine: Protection - This is the secret to eternal young looking skin...

When you think about it, a sunburn is just that - a burn. The sun literally burns our skin - sometimes to a crisp - and it dries up the moisture in our skin, and destroys its cellular makeup. To put it simply, Sunblock (Protection) is EVERYTHING!! I briefly mentioned this in the introduction, but now I will elaborate!

Did you know that sun exposure is the #1 cause of skin cancer, and premature aging? Here are some numbers to put it into perspective: On average, 90% of wrinkles are from external factors, such as sun exposure. The other 10% are from the natural aging process. That is a HUGE difference!

Need a mental picture? Just think about what happens to a grape when it is left out in the sun. Eventually, it will turn into a raisin! The same can be said for our skin. It's not unusual for an 80 year old woman to have the smooth unblemished shoulders of a 30 something. Its proof that skin protected from the sun ages more gracefully.

The purpose of sunblock is to protect your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays, so when you're selecting a sunblock, be sure that it is broad spectrum - meaning that it will block both UVA and UVB rays. Both rays damage the skin in different ways. A simple way to remember what each ray does is: UVA = Aging, and UVB = Burning.

An SPF number indicates the degree of exposure allowed in the sun before the skin starts to burn. For example: SPF 15 means that you can be out in the sun 15 times longer than without any protection at all - It does not however, mean 15 minutes. Check your local UV index for the time allowed in the sun before you will burn. If the index says 10 minutes, this SPF will allow you to stay in the sun 15 times longer, which is 2 and a half hours before you'll need to re-apply.

A higher SPF or recreational sunblock is recommended for extended exposure, sports, swimming, and other outdoor activities (gardening?!?), because they have been designed to be more sweat, water and rub proof. Also keep in mind that you are not completely protected from UV rays behind glass, even if they have a coating - its still only a percentage. In regards to skincare, you can easily mix a small amount of sunblock into your daily moisturizer, some even have an SPF of 15-30 already added to them. These are usually designed to absorb quickly into the skin, allowing you to wear your makeup without a greasy feel.

Step Ten: Health - aka Diet, Exercise, and Well-being.

Lets get real, skin products are not going to save your skin alone. There are other very important elements to achieve a healthy complexion such as a healthy, well balanced diet, adequate water intake, regular exercise, and sufficient rest. Remember, beauty starts on the inside! Underlying health issues, a change in hormones, and negative lifestyle choices can also affect your skin. Overall, if you feel you have tried everything, and take good care of your self and your skin, but still have trouble with keeping your complexion at its best, it may be in your best interest to consult a professional.

I truly hope this information has helped anyone experiencing problems with their skin, and I would love to hear your feedback. If you have some questions, please ask, and I will try my darnedest to answer!!

Final Overview:

-Everyday, you should be Cleansing, Toning, and Moisturizing the eyes, and face (in that order), once in the morning, and once before bed. This is the BARE MINIMUM!

-Once to twice a week, you should use an Exfoliant or Scrub after cleansing, and a Mask before moisturizing.

- Whenever its comfortable with you, Extractions will help quickly get rid of pimples and blackheads. Be sure to tone or cleanse afterwards to reduce clogging other pores.

- Depending on the application, a Serum or Complex can be used daily, or once a week as a deep moisturizing treatment, usually before or with your moisturizer.

- Don't forget about your Luscious Lips! Try to find a lip friendly scrub to use once a week, and a good lip balm keeps lips looking smooth and supple all day!

For a list of all my skin care blogs - including this one - click here!

An introduction to skin care, Step Six

Quick overview:

Step One - Cleansing, twice a day

Step Two - Exfoliating, once a week

Step Three - Extractions, as often as needed

Step Four - Toning, twice a day - after cleansing and extractions

Step Five - Serums/Complexes, once a day-week

And now.... Step Six - Masks, which you can use once a week.

There are so many different kinds of masks that you can choose from, that seem to all have different properties and help different symptoms. It can be fun to try different types like mud masks, gel masks, and peel off masks. When it comes down to choosing a mask, it is important to distinguish the consistency and read ingredient list in regards to your skin type. Some masks will allow you to treat the eye and lip area, and others recommend avoiding it. In any case, always be sure to read the directions.

Some other things to keep in mind about face masks is that what doesn't touch the face, doesn't treat the face. Don't waste product by applying a thick layer to your face if you dont need to. It is also important to keep your mask moist for the treatment duration (which will be stated in the directions). Once the mask dries, it is not active anymore. If you are having trouble with a quick drying mask, you can lightly spritz your face with warm water in a spray bottle. If you have a mask that needs to dry to remove it - like a peel off mask - keep it moist for the recommended wearing time, and then allow it to dry for removal.

Sensitive/Reactive - Gel masks offer a cool feeling which helps reduce redness and irritation. Many gel masks contain botanicals and other ingredients designed to calm and soothe skin (such as aloe). If you find a sensitive skin derived gel mask, you may also be able to use it closer to the eye and lip area, as an added hydration mask for fine lines and wrinkles.

Oily/Combination - Clay and mud masks are generally made to absorb excess oil, tighten and refine pores, and aid in the prevention of future clogging. The coolness of the mud or clay also helps reduce redness and inflammation from breakouts. Typically, these kinds of masks will be rich in beneficial ingredients, and are a first choice for oily and acneic skin.

If you skin has become extremely sensitive from a series of bad breakouts, you may also be able to find gel mask with antibacterial properties, which will help defeat bacteria in the skin, as well as sooth red and irritated breakouts.

Normal/Dry/Mature - Cream masks are rich in moisturizers, humectants, and vitamins which are fantastic for normal, dry, and maturing skin. Paraffin masks are also great for dry or maturing skin, because they promote deeper penetration of any product applied beneath them, such as a complex or serum... although the paraffin doesn't have any medicinal benefits itself.

An introduction to skin care, Step Five

This time around, I am going to talk about serums and/or complexes. These items are truly customizable for your needs! Depending on the task at hand, they can be used as an everyday night time treatment, or as a once a week application. These products are very deep penetrating, and have a multitude of purposes.

The difference between a serum or complex in comparison to a cream moisturizer is where the products work. A serum or complex will penetrate deeper into the layers of skin, and works from the inside out. A cream moisturizer acts as an outside layer, and moisturizes from the outside in. (See why exfoliating is so important?)

A complex or serum can do many things for your skin, such as reduce redness and irritation, even help prevent fine lines and wrinkles. They also give your skin an extra boost in hydration, weather you apply it before your weekly mask, or mix it in with your night time moisturizer. They can also come in different textures, such as a light cream, oil, gel, or liquid.

With the versatility of these products, you can do a fine line a wrinkle treatment one night, and a deep moisturizing treatment later in the week - the possibilities are endless! No matter what kind you choose, your skin will always benefit from the deep moisturizing properties of these products.

Oily/Combination: Keep your eye out for clarifying serums. Use these when you are experiencing bad breakouts, because they will help reduce inflammation, refine pores, and curb oil production by keeping the skin hydrated.

Normal/Dry: Any normal to dry skin type will always benefit from the deep moisturizing of a serum or complex. Look for one specifically geared for a deep moisturize, and add some to your daily moisturizer.

Mature: Look for firming, lifting, and anti-aging complexes. They will help plump up fine lines, and preserve your skins condition.

Sensitive/Reactive: There are serums out there that are made to help alleviate redness, irritation, and help protect against toxins and harsh elements.

Need to catch up? Here are links to previous steps:

Introduction

Step One

Step Two

Step Three

Step Four

An introduction to skin care, Step One

Now that we have had some time to examine our skin types and conditions, we can make a customized skin care regimen for your personal needs. Skin care should take about 5 minutes out of your day, once in the morning, and once before bed. I will list everything in the order of application, how often to use each product, and why that product is going to benefit your skin.

Step One: Cleansing

Cleansers should be used once in the morning, and once at night - everyday. You may need to use your cleanser twice at night if you are wearing a heavy makeup application. And of course, a cleanser should always be chosen to suit your skin type. A lot of people I know just use soap and water to clean their face, you may be one of them. It's great that you are cleansing - but - if you want to take it to the next step and start treating some of the problems you are facing, you may want to consider switching.

When you use soap made for the body on your face, it is normally too alkaline and can actually strip away your natural acid mantel (the natural oil and moisture on your face). Once your natural moisture content is washed away, your face is going to feel tight and dry. Anyone with oily skin will know how great that can feel, (including myself) but what's actually happening is dehydration, and dehydrating your skin can cause fine lines and wrinkles! *GASP*

Not to mention, your skin is thinking "WOW, I am sooo dry! I'm going to make some more OIL (sebum) to make up for it!" - leading to more breakouts and blemishes! Isn't that what you were trying to avoid in the first place? When you use proper cleansers suited for your skin type, your natural acid mantel is not stripped away, however it does remove excess oil, makeup, dirt, and environmental toxins and pollution from the skin.

Normal/Oily/Combination: I know what you're thinking. You love that tight clean feeling after washing. How else will you know that your skin is actually clean? You may want to put down that bar of soap, and opt for an gel or foaming cleanser suited for an oily or combination skin type. Some are deep cleansing - without removing your essential acid mantel. Look for products that are oil free, that are non-comedogenic, and have naturally healing ingredients.

Normal/Mature/Dry: Look for a milk or cream cleanser suited for your needs. Many cream cleansers are formulated to keep more moisture in the skin which would be great for a mature or dry skin type. A basic, non-drying, non-oily milk type cleanser is great for a close to normal skin type. Look for products that are alcohol free, and have naturally rejuvenating and moisturizing ingredients.

Sensitive/Reactive: You can find gentle cleansers that are formulated as a basic soft face wash that wont leave your skin feeling tight or irritated - such as a gentle milk cleanser. Look for products with basic, natural ingredients, and state that they are for sensitive or reactive skin.

The biggest word of advice I can give anyone is to always read the ingredient labels, and make sure you know what you are putting onto your skin. Some ingredients may cause your skin to dry out or even clog pores. Steer clear of ingredients such as Mineral Oil and Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate, just a few among many others. If you are shopping for new products, and don't know what the ingredients listed are, write them down and look them up.

I suggest giving your current skin care lineup the third degree. Throw out all of your expired products - any active ingredients past their prime will not benefit your skin, and if the products contain natural ingredients, they may go rancid - ew. Write down each one of your products, then look up every ingredient. I know it sounds tedious, but write out all the pros and cons for each one. Is it worth putting on your face? Here is a skin care ingredient glossary, which can be very helpful.

After your skin care interrogation, you may feel overcome by a sense of power. YES, you ARE bigger than these bottles of cream and toner, and you can control the good and bad that goes on your face. Stay posted for Step Two!

An introduction to skin care

I know this is a bit off the beaten path of gardening, but with my skin care education, I can't help myself! In 2007, I graduated from the Esthetic's program as Eveline Charles Academy in Edmonton. I worked at a small spa for a short time afterwards, but left that career because it wasn't paying for my rent. *hint* *hint* Of course I did services for friends on the side, and always give advice when I can because I don't want my education to be completely wasted! I even thought about writing a simple skin care booklet to sell, but still haven't had the muster to print it. But now, I have the urge again, and want to share some of my education and experience with you, for FREE!

Of course, not everything I write out is going to work for everyone, because we all have different and unique skin needs. Also, there is a lot more than just face product that will affect your skin... but we'll get to that later!

Normally when I talk to people about their skin care regimen, I'm surprised to hear how clueless they feel when it comes to what product they should use on their face. Not that it's their fault - Ive been there myself, and always thought that what I learned in school is what everyone else knew, and I was the only clueless one! But you're not alone! I've even heard people say"My Grandmother and Mom have great skin, so I'm sure mine will be too." well... Not exactly. Although you will have similar skin traits, you must keep in mind that our environment today is a lot harsher than it was even 20 years ago. We have to combat stronger toxins, harsher UV damage, and even more pollution. Many young people are now tanning at salons, smoking, drinking alcohol and coffee, and these are all culprits of negatively affecting the health of our skin.

That said, the #1 thing you want to keep in mind is Prevention, because when it comes to the health and vitality of your skin, prevention comes first.

Determining Skin Types and Conditions

A skin type is what you are born with, and never changes - with the exception of mature skin.

A skin condition can come and go at any age, for any length of time.

Determining your skin type and any current conditions can prove to be difficult - kind of sounds like a weather report! It's easy to get confused, and mix up a condition for a type and vise versa. When you're trying to identify the issues on your face, try to think if its always been that way, or has changed or appeared recently. That will help you determine if you're treating your skin condition, or type. But, both skin types and conditions are treatable, and can be controlled. (Confused yet?) I'm going to write out a few guidelines to help you determine what your skin type is, and figure out any conditions you may have.

Skin Types

Oily: Excess sebum (oil) production throughout the face, thick shiny skin, large pore size, prone to breakouts and clogged areas, minimal fine lines and wrinkles.

Normal: Sufficient moisture (oil and water), minimal breakouts and clogged areas, small to medium pore size.

Combination: Can have areas that are both oily and dry, large pore size in T-zone (forehead and nose, chin), this is the most common skin type.

Dry: Lacks sebum (oil) production, heightened sensitivity, fine lines and wrinkles, small pore size, skin appears thin and delicate.

Mature: Loose, thin, crepe like skin, wrinkles and deep lines, lacks elasticity and firmness, re-occurring dryness. Most people will eventually have a mature skin type, because our skin naturally looses elasticity, firmness and moisture as we age.

Sensitive/Reactive: Heightened sensitivity, causes red flushed look, and is most prevalent in fair skinned individuals. Sensitive to touch, temperature or even sun/Reactive to skin products and makeup, etc.

Skin Conditions

Rosacea: A vascular disorder, small capillaries become dilated and inflamed, skin becomes red and inflamed around nose, cheeks and chin. Rosacea can be accompanied by acne, small red bumps and couperose. It can appear between the ages of 30-40, and last for years more. It is normally most prevalent in woman and fair skinned individuals, and is aggravated by alcohol, spicy foods and extreme temperatures.

Acne: A Chronic inflammatory disorder of the sebaceous (oil producing) glands. Acne can occur when the hair follicles become plugged with sebum (oil), dead skin cells and bacteria. Acne is most common in preteens and teenagers, 10-19 years of age. Acne can cause blackheads, whiteheads, papules and pustules (Pimples and Zits)

Dehydration: A lack of moisture (water) in the skin. Shows superficial dryness, flakiness, scaliness, can be patchy and usually displays fine lines. Dehydration is normally caused by improper product use, lack of product use, and even environmental influences (seasonal change). Even and oily skin type can be dehydrated!

Couperose: Fine dilated capillaries, normally found on cheeks and nose. Usually cause by damage or trauma to the skin from harsh products, extreme temperature change, chemicals, and sun damage. Causes a persistent red flushed look on cheeks or small red lines around nose.

NOW, go examine your face for a few hours, and decide what skin type you are, and what kind of conditions you have, because my next blog will be about your skin care regimen for your skin type. If you are having a hard time determining what kind of skin you have, leave me a comment with your dilemma, and I will do my best to help you! I hope no one is upset about the change of scenery, I promise to post something about gardening soon! (I just need to get this out of my system!)